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Old Fashioned Perfumes

From old medical guides, Pharmacopeias and dispensatories, old fashioned recipes of all sorts can be found for common ailments and cosmetics. I have enjoyed studying the old formulas and medical therapies of the 1800's and early 1900's that are documented in them. Many of the recipes are intimidating in that they use units of measure that we are not familiar with and many also use ingredients, intended for ingestion, that are now known to be toxic or are restricted, like opium or morphine.

Still, there is much to be learned studying the old recipes and some fun can be had experimenting with some of them. I especially enjoy experimenting with old cosmetic and pefume recipes. Unlike most fragrances of our time, the old formulas are made with natural essential oils and other basic ingredients. Following is a collection of old recipes for scented products - including some that you may want to try making yourself.

Lavender Toilet water

2 drachms Oil of Lavender
1 drachms Oil of Bergamot
4 drachms Vanilla
4 drachms Angelica
10 ounces Cologne Spirits
4 ounces Rosewater

Florida Toilet Water

1/4 ounce Oil of Lavender
1/4 ounce Oil of Bergamot
1/4 ounce Oil of Lemon
1/2 drachm Oil of Sweet Orange
15 drops Oil of Cloves
1/2 drachm Oil of Cassia
3 pints Cologne Spirits
1 pint Rosewater

Rinse and filter through magnesia.

Balm of a Thousand Flowers

1 pint Deodorized Alcohol
Bar Soap, nice and white

Shave the soap when putting it in, let stand in a warm place until dissolved, and then add the following.

1 drachm Oil of Citronella
1/2 drachm Oil of Neroli
1/2 drachm Oil of rosemary

Bay Rum Mixture

1/2 ounce Oil of Bay
1/2 ounce Oil of Clove
1 ounce Red Thyme
1 ounce Oil Allspice

Mix all together. To make Bay Rum, add 1/4 ounce of this mixture to 2 pints of alcohol. Shake thoroughly and add 2 pints of water and 1 ounce of Carbonate of Magnesia, finely pulverized. Place it in a filter and filter Bay Rum through it.

Another Bay Rum Mixture

1 ounce Oil of Bay
1 drachm Oil of Clove
1 drachm Oil of Sweet Orange
30 drops Oil og Neroli Petale
30 drops Oil of Allspice
3 drops Oil of Cardamon

Prepare as above.

King's Cologne

*The following formula hass been published by one of the Messrs. Farina, the originators of cologne: Take of purified Benzoin, Oil or Rosemary, each, by weight, one-fourth of an ounce; Oil of Lavender half an ounce, by weight; Strong Alcohol nine pints; mix, and agitate thoroughly together, and then add successively, Oil of Neroli (petits grains), Oil of Lemon, each one ounce and 144 minums; Oil of sweet Orange (Aurantii Dulcis), Oil of Limettae (Lime), Oil of Bergamot, each two ounces and 288 minums; Tinct. Flor. Geranii Rose (Flowers of Rose Geranium) for several weeks a sufficient quantity to impart the desired fragrance. Macerate for several weeks, and fill into flasks. A.D. Circ., VIII 85. Am. Jour. Pharm., 1864 p 375. I have reduced weights and measures above. - K

King's Cologne - adapted

7.4 ml. Rosemary Essential Oil
7.4 ml. Lemon Essential Oil
3.7 ml. Lavender Essential Oil
3.7 ml. Bergamot Essential Oil
8 drops Cinnamon Essential Oil
8 drops Clove Essential Oil
8 drops Rose Essential Oil
1/4 c 70 % Ethyl Alcohol (Everclear diluted to 70%)

Mix together in a glass bottle and allow to steep for a few days. Shake well before using.
Adapted from King's American Dispensatory

Verbena Oil

1/2 Pint Cologne Alcohol
1 drachm Otto or Oil of Verbena
20 drops Oil of Lavender
20 drops Oil of Bergamot

Mix all together.

White Rose

15 drops Oil of Rose
10 drops Oil of Rose Geranium
2 drops Patchouli
2 ounces Ambrette Tincture
4 ounces Orris Tincture
12 ounces deodorized Alcohol
1 pint Rosewater

Dissolve the oils in the deodorized alcohol, add the tinctures, shake well then slowly add the rosewater and filter through filtering paper. If desired, a slight tinge of color may be given by adding a very small amount of Aniline.

Mary Stewart

15 drops Oil of Rose
5 drops Oil of Sandalwood
1/2 drachm Oil of Bergamot
4 ounces Orris Root Tincture
1 ounce Civet Tincture
1 ounce Vanilla Tincture
3 ounces Deodorized Alcohol
7 ounces Rosewater
1/2 ounce Carbonate of Magnesia

Mix the oils and tinctures with 1/2 ounces of the deodorized alcohol, place the Magnesia in a mortar or some convenient vessel, pour on the solution of oils and alcohol and mix thoroughly. Mix the remaining 1 1/2 ounces of alcohol and the rosewater, add all together and filter through filtering paper.

Jockey Club

6 drachms Oil of Bergamot
15 drops Oil of Lavender
8 drops Oil of Rose
4 ounces Orris Root Tincture
1 1/2 ounce Vanilla Tincture
4 ounces Cologne Spirits
7 ounces Rosewater

Mix as above.

Caution: For historical reference I have not altered these recipes but some of the oils used are not recommended for application to the skin. Please consult an aromatherapy guide to determine the safety of the oils in the recipes and for instructions on testing for sensitivites. "Essential Oil Safety: A Guide for Health Care Professionals" by Robert B. Tisserand and Tony Balacs is one possible source of safety information.

Note: Fluid drachm = 1/8 fluid ounce or 3.552 milliliters.

References

King's American Dispensatory: Harvey Wickes Felter, M.D., and John Uri Lloyd, Phr. M., Ph. D., 1898.
Dr. Goodenough's Home Cures and Herbal Remedies: Josephus Goodenough M.D. 1904.

If you would like more recipes for products you can make at home visit our recipe center. http://www.wildroots.com/recipe/index.html

Copyright (c) 2002 by Stony Mountain Botanicals, Ltd. All rights reserved.

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